A Visit to Port Mulgrave
In true Yorkshire style we decided that despite a dismal forecast we’d
pack up a picnic, pop the kayak in the car and zoom over the moors to
Port Mulgrave...and wow. A few friends had mentioned the hidden
treasure on the Yorkshire coast but what we discovered far exceeded
our expectations.
We slipped down the hill path, so steep the steps resembled a ladder,
and onto the deserted cove. The weather had been grey when we set off
but the sun broke through with a last hint of summer, and brought
warmth to the little fisherman’s cove, despite the crashing waves.
If you haven’t heard of Port Mulgrave, it is a small cove tucked
between Staithes and Runswick Bay. What makes it unique is the
incredible collection of ramshackle fisherman huts. They are absolute
works of art. Each hut is built out of driftwood, boats, lobster
pots...whatever the sea provides.
Each hut has its own kind of magic and exudes creativity and
mystery...and one revealed its mystery to us. As we gazed out to sea
debating whether or not we should chance a Kayak in the rough water, a
man appeared and told us we were absolute idiots, that if we were
going out...he'd enjoy watching. And that is how we met Nick. The only
permanent resident in Port Mulgrave. He has lived in the area for
years, and discovered the port when he was looking for Whitby Jet that
he made into Jewelry. After a few years one hut came up on the market
and he has been living there ever since. Nick is a fossil
hunter...which are in abundance at the port. He told us of the stormy
evening he has spent snug in the shack as the walls literally shook
with the force of the wind, of friends he has had to dig out of
landslides as they were fossil hunting together, and finally, about
the prehistoric crocodile he is excavating. He cracked open fossils
for us...letting the light shine on it for the first time in millions
of years and even let us take them home.
We didn't get a chance to Kayak, but meeting Nick and exploring the
secret cove made up for it. It's definitely one of the most mystical
beaches I've visited and if you get the chance...the climb is worth
it.
Alfie and Fabia x